If  your radiator is damaged then there are three options.

1. You can simply try a radiator sealer which you just follow the manufacturers instructions and pour into your system.  These chemicals tend to have mixed results and will certainly not work with a large leak.  Personally my experience of these products is one of dissapointment.
2. Re-core.  There is absolutely nothing wrong with having your radiator re-cored.  Other than the cost!!  You can ring for a quote, but this tends to be an expensive process and usually only worthwhile with a large or expensive radiator.
3. Replace with a new radiator.  The radiators for the MF135 are produced in sufficiently large numbers to make them quite cheap to buy in comparrison with a re-core.  Compare radiator prices.
   

The water temperature gauges can sometimes go wrong and a replacement is necessary. If you are looking to maintain originallity then you will probaby need to look for a second hand gauge, as the outer detailing is often different to the original.

New gauges are not expensive at approximately £12. If yours in broken then replacing it is definately a good idea, as a boiling engine can warp the head and create a lot of expense. Check to make sure your radiator is clean. If it is clogged with dirt then it will need blowing out with an airline. If an airline will not move the dirt then you may need to remove the radiator and pressure hose the dirt out. Just be careful if you are pressure hosing the radiator. The fins are very delicate and you do not want to damage the core.

Other things to check are the thermostat, water pump and the flow of water through the radiator. If you take off the bottom hose and fill the top from a hosepipe then the flow of water through the radiator whould be able to take the water from the hosepipe without it backing up and spilling out of the filler (that’s an approximate guide). Also check the radiator cap – the rubber seal should be intact and serviceable, otherwise the presure (and hence temperature of the water) will be incorrect.

Many, many MF135’s are now in need of an engine rebuild, as most of these engines have now clocked up between 6,000 and 15,000 hours – some even more! In our experience there is no point in only half-doing an engine. If you are going to go to all the trouble of a complete engine strip-down then it makes sense to replace all of the worn components.

The most economical way to do this is to buy a full engine kitwhich will include everything you need.

The Perkins AD3.152 engine was fitted to the 135, 148 and 240 tractors and kits contain pistons, rings, all gaskets, valves kit, liners, big small and main bearings, oil pump assembly, etc.

If you are looking for some guidance on how to asess an engine for wear and serviceabliity, then the MF35 Engine Rebuild DVD is useful – with a trailer video and photos of the engine rebuild.

Care and attention is probably the most important thing when doing a full rebuild.  You may need to label lots if different containers with the nuts and bolts that belong to a certain component.  If you lay them all out in the order you dismantled then the rebuild process will be much easier.  Another tip is to take photographs as you go along to remind yourself of what goes where.

When assessing all the components it is vital to take your time.  You will need some feeler gauges, a vernier, micrometers (of different sizes)  and preferably a dial test indicator to measure the liner standout above the top of the block.

The 3 cylinder AD3.152 developed 45.5Hp from a 3.6″ (91.4mm) bore and 5″ (127mm) stroke.  The engine is probably the major factor that made the 135 such a great tractor and we can all recoginse the sound of a MF135 as it trips along the road, down a farm track or is working in the field.  Music to my ears if the engine is in good condition.